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Jurancon is not the name everyone thinks of when searching for French fine wines. When people think of sweet wines they think Sauternes, Alsace, Loire or even Banyuls. Jurancon offers an elegant, lighter alternative that can be enjoyed as an aperitif, dessert wine or drunk with main courses. The dry version, still seen by some locals as an abomination, is usually fresh, floral with hints of fruit that sometimes hint at the tropical fruitiness of the sweet wines.
Armed with Paul Strangs, Wines of South West France my better half and I headed for the hills. One of the destinations we had in mind was the highly rated Domaine De Souch. In the hills it certainly is, winding through the woods from Laroin you would never know that Pau is so close. As we pulled into the car park we were met by Madame Yvonne Hegoburu, owner and star of the film Mondovino. A lovely lady, who, realising we were English summoned her vineyard manager, Manu to continue the tour.
We were treated to beautiful views of the Pyrenees, a tour of the estate and a tasting of some wonderful wine. We also met other stars of the silver screen, the three huge Pyrenean Mountain dogs. As we walked in front of the beautiful residence above the vines a snake hurried away, perhaps it thought the dogs were going to chase it, we were told that that was one of their jobs. I presume that was for the few minutes a day they didn't eat, sleep or keep visitors company.
The vines stretched down the hillside leading the eye south to those gorgeous mountain vistas. Despite the closeness of the peaks Manu explained that they worked on the vines in shirt sleeves, even in January. The vineyard is planted with the local varieties Gros and Petit Manseng and Petit Courbu and run on the increasingly popular bio-dynamic principles which limit the use of chemicals. Madame was a great friend of the late lamented Didier Dagueneau, who himself had a small vineyard in Jurancon, Les Jardins de Babylone making an expensive moelleux. I haven't had the pleasure but I suspect it is likely to be amongst the best of the region.
The wines, sec made from Gros Manseng with a little Petit Manseng and Petit Courbu was vinified in steel vats, as was the basic moelleux though this was 50/50 Gros and Petit Manseng. The special cuvee is 100% Petit Manseng vinified in barrels.
The sweet Jurancons had a citrus aroma with hints of pineapple and lychee which came through on the palette without cloying. The special Cuvee Marie Kattelin, of which we tried some older vintages, were richer with almost mango/tropical flavours but still light and amazingly fresh.
The sec was delicate with a hints of melon and pear, ideal for white fish or scallops. The only problem we have is drink now or leave to develop, I imagine the sec will improve for 4 or 5 years, the moelleux for far longer.
Manu was a delightful and informative host, showing a warmth and friendliness that seemed so typical of the people of the Bearn and the Pays Basque. We left, wine in the boot of the car thrilled with the reception we had received, one of those life affirming experiences that don't come along that often. If you can't get there yourself I recommend you seek out the wines.
Madame Hegoboru is in her 80's and should be seen as a national treasure. Long may she continue.
Coming soon, Clos Lapeyre, Chateau Montus, Domaine Berthoumieu and Chateau Laffitte-Teston
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